Hong Kong Today by Edmund
I believe that I have an interesting – yet not uncommon – perspective on Hong Kong. Having been born there but moving to Canada when I was 6, visiting gives me simultaneous feelings of nostalgia and discovery. This was never more apparent than with my last visit. Being an independent "adult adult" now, I am truly able to appreciate the things that I once took for granted, most notably the availability of unbelievable food, fashion and the interesting mix of British influence with Chinese tradition. I can now say, objectively, that Hong Kong is a truly amazing city. So busy and bursting with life, no two visits are the same. You'll also find that despite the seemingly chaotic activity, it's an impressively well organized city, their public transit is the envy of metropolitan centres the world over. On any given trip, you often have the luxury of choosing between the efficient MTR subway, or the scenic street cable cars.
I've assembled a small list of recommendations based on my last particular experience, hopefully it will serve as a useful starting point for those of you planning a trip there in the near future.
Seafood lovers rejoice! The Sai Kung waterfront is lined with fishermen selling live lobster, crab, abalone and things I've never seen before – right out of their tiny boats. Many even offer sun-dried versions and free samples to passersby. Once you're done looking, you can do some eating at one of the many restaurants close by. Many offer the option of selecting a certain number of your favourites for a set price. I practically died over the lobster.
The SOHO area in Hong Kong was not named after its approximation to NYC's SOHO, but rather because of its geographical location south of Hollywood Street (which, for the record, existed before Hollywood, CA). While you're soaking in the history of this area, a reflection of Hong Kong's Colonial history, you should definitely make a point to check out the small cluster of shops on Wyndham street. You'll see A.P.C, visvim at F.I.L, Julius, EYE Junya Watanabe and a BAPE store.
Take part in the iconic afternoon tea at The Peninsula, one of Hong Kong's oldest hotels. Enjoy the beautiful architecture as the pianist serenades you from the balcony. People-watch and fantasize that everyone around you is an important diplomat from an exotic country. It's that kind of place.
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EAT AND DRINK
Tim Ho Wan
2-8 Kwong Wah St., Mong Kok, Kowloon
This unassuming little restaurant is all about the old dim sum classics that any enthusiast of the traditional Chinese brunch have no doubt had a thousand times before. But not like this. The Michelin-starred restaurant boasts time-tested staples like the Ha-Gao (shrimp dumpling), Siu-Mai (pork dumpling) which are made from scratch with the freshest of ingredients. You can really taste it. Their signature dish is a spin on the beloved Cha-Siu-Bao (BBQ pork buns) which replaces the traditional steamed bun with a lightly crusted one. It’ll be the most affordable and unpretentious Michelin-starred meal you'll ever have.
The Pawn
62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Once known for its prostitution and shady activity, the Wan Chai district has since become a trendy hub for hip young people and wealthy ex-pats. The Pawn’s name is inspired by the pawn shops that are somewhat iconic of Hong Kong’s cultural past and the restaurant itself is in an old colonial building that was once a pawn shop itself. The bar's concept preserves many of the details and history of the old building and provides an interesting blast from the past right down to the logo. You'll find antique adding machines, rusty metal gates and caged lamps placed alongside new pieces with a contemporary twist. Sit out on the balcony and watch the hustle and bustle of the streets below as you sip a lychee martini or a glass of wine from their list.
Maxim's Bakery
Everywhere in the city
Maxim's and bakeries like it are all over the city. The smell that wafts out of them is so awesome that they are hard to miss. Inside, you'll find delicious buns filled with coconut custard, ham and cheese, butter cream and more, baked fresh daily. You never really know what you're getting because the names are cryptic, and that's if you read Chinese, so bring your adventurous spirit, grab a tray, a pair of the communal tongs and go nuts.
Sai Kung (Fishing village)
North-east shore of Kowloon Island
Seafood lovers rejoice! The Sai Kung waterfront is lined with fishermen selling live lobster, crab, abalone and things I've never seen before – right out of their tiny boats. Many even offer sun-dried versions and free samples to passersby. Once you're done looking, you can do some eating at one of the many restaurants close by. Many offer the option of selecting a certain number of your favourites for a set price. I practically died over the lobster.Silvercord Mall Food Court
30 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Food is truly exceptional in Hong Kong. It's part easy access to amazingly fresh seafood and part healthy local food culture. Not to mention China's amazing culinary history. Because apartments are small and Hong Kong life is so fast-paced, people eat out a lot. So food is amazing and cheap. You'll definitely see this for yourself if you visit the Silvercord Mall food court – a smorgasbord of all the deliciousness Asia has to offer in one convenient place. You'll find everything from Taiwanese, congee, sizzling grill to dim sum and Vietnamese. I had to circle the place 4 times before making up my mind on one dish. Did I mention how cheap it all is?
Islam Food
1 Lung Kong Road, Kowloon
There's an Islamic population in China - a fact I wasn't aware of prior to my visit. They have their own skew on Chinese cuisine and guess what? It's delicious. Islam Food serves this brand of Chinese food and has garnered quite the following, just check out the autographed Hong Kong celebrity photos and press clippings on the walls. Apparently it's hard to get a seat here during peak hours. Luckily, I was there somewhere in between. Their signature dish is the veal goulash patty which is pretty tasty, as is the curried mutton stew.
SML
11/F Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
A slightly more upscale bar and restaurant than what you'll get used to here. A little more expensive and "Westerner-friendly" with English speaking staff. It's a nice change to be waited on with a smile after a few days of no-frills curt typical HK style service. Grab a drink and a bite to eat. They offer a varied menu featuring everything from fish & chips to pad thai, in small, medium and large portions - hence the name. One of the main draws is the rooftop terrace which is nestled between taller skyscrapers that offer shelter from the humid Hong Kong heat.
SHOP
The One (Shopping Mall)
100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
While in Hong Kong, you'll quickly notice that there are A LOT of shopping malls. Since one usually bleeds into another, it's easy to get lost. But it's a good kind of lost. Unlike North American shopping malls, Hong Kong malls don't have the same negative stigma attached to them. Due to insanely expensive real estate, shopping malls are simply the best way for retail stores to thrive. Don't be surprised to find high-end brands like Dior and Hermès sitting happily next to affordable fashion chains like H&M.
'The One', opening its doors in 2010, is a welcomed recent addition. Thanks in part to the I.T group, a Hong Kong fashion retailer and agency (you will see their logo on most of the storefront windows), this tall, narrow 25-storey complex houses some standalone stores of hard-to-find Japanese fashion labels. Most notably Beauty and Youth United Arrows and Journal Supply, both of which create their own finely crafted versions of American classics.
Monocle Shop
1-4 St.Francis, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
This tiny Hong Kong location is unique to the rest of the Monocle Shops scattered around the world in that it's not only a boutique but also a "news gathering" office. It's located inconspicuously behind a wooden gate at the back of the shop. In the shop you'll find a diverse sampling of Monocle's many product collaborations (think Gitman Bros, Kitsuné and Tomorrowland). You can, of course, also pick up copies of Monocle magazine.
Wyndham Street
SOHO, Central, Hong Kong
The SOHO area in Hong Kong was not named after its approximation to NYC's SOHO, but rather because of its geographical location south of Hollywood Street (which, for the record, existed before Hollywood, CA). While you're soaking in the history of this area, a reflection of Hong Kong's Colonial history, you should definitely make a point to check out the small cluster of shops on Wyndham street. You'll see A.P.C, visvim at F.I.L, Julius, EYE Junya Watanabe and a BAPE store.Flagship stores on Canton Street
Canton Street, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Take a stroll along the gigantic flagship luxury brand stores on Canton Street (Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel, Prada, Gucci and more), not so much to shop - unless your wallet overfloweth with spending cash - but to marvel at the lineups. Yes lineups. People are lining up to buy $1500 handbags. And buying they are, as one happy customer after another walks out with shopping bags in hand.
Bespoke Tailoring
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Hong Kong's all about value. There's a whole slew of tailors in Tsim Sha Tsui but I was recommended one called "Lee's de Paris" on Mody Street. If you know what you want and how to articulate it, you can get quality bespoke here for bargain prices. The suit and shirt I had made cost me about the same as you'd pay for a sportcoat at Zara. Insane value.
SEE
The Peninsula Hotel
Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Take part in the iconic afternoon tea at The Peninsula, one of Hong Kong's oldest hotels. Enjoy the beautiful architecture as the pianist serenades you from the balcony. People-watch and fantasize that everyone around you is an important diplomat from an exotic country. It's that kind of place.Lantau Island
Island east of Hong Kong
Home of the Giant Buddha. Besides the obvious splendor of the impressive bronze statue, the mountain views are pretty sweet from the top of the stairs. You may also want to try the vegetarian restaurant where all the food is grown and cooked by the Buddhist monks who actually live in the monastery. If you're not afraid of heights like I am, take the Ngong Ping 360° (cable car) back down the mountain for a panoramic view of the whole island.
Kowloon Park
Kowloon Park Dr, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
A thing you'll discover in Hong Kong is that despite being one the world's most densely populated places, there is a very surprising amount of green spaces. If you're looking for a break from the intensity of busy Tsim Sha Tsui, head into Kowloon park. Strollamidst fountains, birds, koi ponds, turtle ponds, bamboo trees and oriental gazebos. You may even come across a couple of stray cats hanging out in the sun.
Star Ferry
Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Wan Chai
The Star Ferry takes you between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Though the MTR subway and bus are more efficient modes of transportation, it's a nice way to appreciate the Hong Kong Central skyline from a distance. Note how the Bank of China building towers over the Jardine House, once named the city's tallest skyscraper at the time of its construction. Plus the ferries have remained relatively unchanged since the 1950's, so that's pretty cool.
Street Markets
Mong Kok & Temple Street, Kowloon
These markets still sell mostly touristy souvenirs and poor quality knockoffs, but it's fun to walk through them anyway. Everyone says this and it's true – if you decide to buy, haggle! The divide between the listed price and what they are willing to accept is pretty astonishing.
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